Jump to content


Photo

Milsurp Restoration Thread


  • Please log in to reply
11 replies to this topic

#1 coolhandluke

coolhandluke

    .22

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 13 posts
1
  • LocationYukon, OK

Posted 12 March 2012 - 07:49 PM

Looks like we need a thread to post all of our restoration questions and advice in. If you need information regarding restoration (sources for replacement parts, use of correct parts, etc) or cleaning / refinishing of a surplus or C&R firearm, please post it here in this thread.

#2 Kevin S.

Kevin S.

    .40 S&W

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 898 posts
62
  • LocationTulsa area

Posted 13 March 2012 - 11:24 AM

What's the best way to remove shellac from the wood? I used some sand paper and acetone on my Enfield, but was wondering if paint or lacquer thinner might be better, or if some of those would be too aggressive.
Psalm 144:1 Blessed be the Lord my strength, who teacheth my hands to war, and my fingers to fight.

#3 coolhandluke

coolhandluke

    .22

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 13 posts
1
  • LocationYukon, OK

Posted 13 March 2012 - 11:58 AM

Denatured alcohol is definitely the way to go when thinning or completely removing shellac. You can touch up scratched or peeling shellac by using a small amount to soften and blend the existing shellac. If you are wanting to completely strip the finish, just use a medium coarse steel wool pad dipped in DA.

#4 Kevin S.

Kevin S.

    .40 S&W

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 898 posts
62
  • LocationTulsa area

Posted 17 March 2012 - 10:29 PM

The cartouches on my Garand (original WW2 era stock) are faded pretty bad. Is there any way to restore, or make them bolder/brighter without risking the value of the stock or making it look like it was faked?
Psalm 144:1 Blessed be the Lord my strength, who teacheth my hands to war, and my fingers to fight.

#5 coolhandluke

coolhandluke

    .22

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 13 posts
1
  • LocationYukon, OK

Posted 18 March 2012 - 08:12 AM

The cartouches on my Garand (original WW2 era stock) are faded pretty bad. Is there any way to restore, or make them bolder/brighter without risking the value of the stock or making it look like it was faked?


Kevin,

A simple cleaning is as aggressive as I would get with it. I've seen too many people try to enhance their cartouches by either restamping or actually carving out the existing lines...and it always ends badly. A stock with a worn / faint cartouche is always going to be more valuable and historically correct than one that has been enhanced. Trying doing an oil scrub on the stock if you haven't already. If you have already gone that route, try gently cleaning the indentions of the the cartouche with acetone and a toothpick. From what I have read over on the CMP forums, acetone won't affect the color and patina of the areas of your stock that it is applied to.

#6 McGuire

McGuire

    9 mm

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 465 posts
41
  • LocationOKC, OK

Posted 18 March 2012 - 11:10 AM

So Im doing a swap for my M1A from the original walnut which will be wrapped in a towel and protected, to a fiberglass USGI stock, I bought a new buttplate and mounting hardware and soon Ill be bedding the action into that stock. I am wondering the best way to clean up the fiberglass.

#7 coolhandluke

coolhandluke

    .22

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 13 posts
1
  • LocationYukon, OK

Posted 18 March 2012 - 12:29 PM

So Im doing a swap for my M1A from the original walnut which will be wrapped in a towel and protected, to a fiberglass USGI stock, I bought a new buttplate and mounting hardware and soon Ill be bedding the action into that stock. I am wondering the best way to clean up the fiberglass.


You'll just need to use acetone to clean the areas where you plan to install the bedding material. After cleaning thoroughly, be sure to rough the surfaces that you are bedding with coarse sandpaper. Marine and RV fiberglass cleaners and polishes will work well to maintain the exterior of the stock. I have seen several people recommend Flitz Metal Polish, Fiberglass & Paint Restorer, but it must be used sparingly or you'll end up with a stock full of bling.

#8 McGuire

McGuire

    9 mm

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 465 posts
41
  • LocationOKC, OK

Posted 18 March 2012 - 01:04 PM

Yea I think Im just gonna clean it up and rough it and then OD it, if there are any cracks can I just use epoxy and seal them or is there a specific type thats better for fiberglass

#9 coolhandluke

coolhandluke

    .22

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 13 posts
1
  • LocationYukon, OK

Posted 18 March 2012 - 09:27 PM

Yea I think Im just gonna clean it up and rough it and then OD it, if there are any cracks can I just use epoxy and seal them or is there a specific type thats better for fiberglass


I would probably look at using Acraglas for both the bedding and any repairs that need to be made.

#10 McGuire

McGuire

    9 mm

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 465 posts
41
  • LocationOKC, OK

Posted 20 March 2012 - 06:37 AM

Couldnt get the link button to work, but heres a few pictures of my stock restoration so far, I used a boat repair resin to fix some minor cracking, I needed something I could beat up and not care about it getting knicked or dinged. The rest just kinda happened, wanted something a little different, still need to get a different top shield so I can paint to match.
Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image Posted Image Posted Image

#11 McGuire

McGuire

    9 mm

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 465 posts
41
  • LocationOKC, OK

Posted 20 March 2012 - 09:08 AM

Sorry about the crappy cell phone pictures but Ill get some better ones soon. Next is bedding and gas system shimming and such, I guess its not so much a restoration as it is an accuracy enhancement and refit.

#12 Rick McMahill (Biggsly)

Rick McMahill (Biggsly)

    .40 S&W

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 560 posts
11
  • LocationYukon, Oklahoma

Posted 20 March 2012 - 10:10 AM

Couldnt get the link button to work, but heres a few pictures of my stock restoration so far, I used a boat repair resin to fix some minor cracking, I needed something I could beat up and not care about it getting knicked or dinged. The rest just kinda happened, wanted something a little different, still need to get a different top shield so I can paint to match.
Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image Posted Image Posted Image

That thing looks awesome.
Sometimes nothin can be a real cool hand.




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users