Gun Oil Corrosion Test

kdf9511

Well-Known Member
Chambers said:
Put it in a gun case and see what happens. :) That's the only time I've ever had rust issues.
I have never had that issue and all mine are cased in the closet. However I do leave the case open so it can breathe and I have dessicants in the closet.
 

dennishoddy

Moderator
Scott Hearn said:
Thats funny and me too! But my grandpa could leave his pristine Belgian Browning Sweet 16 in it's case for years at a time and not get a single molecule of corrosion on it. I have no idea why. :smiley_confused1: :41:
I've carried, and used my Belgian sweet 16 on several multi day hunts in the rain, fog, etc. Those dammed things just won't rust!

I suspect the rust bluing process that was used back in the day, may prevent some of that.

I wipe my guns down before putting them in one of the safes, but we had a water heater leak a couple of years back that kept the room flooded for a couple of days while we were gone.

When I opened the safes, every gun was covered in some sort of mold on it including some of my classic double barrel SXS shotguns. I was heart broken, but every gun cleaned up without any sign of the mold. There is a golden rod in each now. No further problems.
 

Scott Hearn

Well-Known Member
Wormydog1724 said:
I wish you could do a test with friction.
You and me both. A falex test is very good for comparison but it's very easy to induce variables unintentionally. I'd like to run my own for sure.

But on another note, I had an idea last night for a "carbon" test. It won't be very scientific at all but it should be a pretty comparative showing between the different products. When this is done I'll sand the panel back down and do it.
 

Wormydog1724

ATAS Ninja
So what's the deal with applying the fireclean then wiping it off? Why can't you just dump it on there like you do with Mobil 1 or any other oil and just run it? I know the instructions say to do it that way, but why?

Also I would have like to seen a test panel with all the test subjects mixed together. Just for fun.
 

technetium-99m

Mighty Righty
Wormydog1724 said:
So what's the deal with applying the fireclean then wiping it off? Why can't you just dump it on there like you do with Mobil 1 or any other oil and just run it? I know the instructions say to do it that way, but why?

Also I would have like to seen a test panel with all the test subjects mixed together. Just for fun.
Uberlube!
 

Scott Hearn

Well-Known Member
Wormydog1724 said:
So what's the deal with applying the fireclean then wiping it off? Why can't you just dump it on there like you do with Mobil 1 or any other oil and just run it? I know the instructions say to do it that way, but why?

Also I would have like to seen a test panel with all the test subjects mixed together. Just for fun.
I left a a light film on all of them except for 2 of the Froglube panels that say "heated". I'm actually testing the froglube two different ways (liquid AND paste, hence the 4 FL panels). Heated with a hair dryer and then totally wiped clean and also applied just like you state since that's what we all do anyway. I just wanted to see what it did when applied to a heated surface like the videos all over youtube. All the others do have a coating on them, pretty thin, but it was there when I placed it outside.
 

Scott Hearn

Well-Known Member
Took some pics today. Not a lot has been happening but I'm getting some action now. Seems that I'm going to be proven wrong about CLP being pretty good for corrosion. It's faring the absolute worst so far. The most surprising one is the Remoil, it's hanging with all the rest of them so far and I really thought it would be the first to give it up. Got a little spot on the Fireclean that might be starting.




 

Scott Hearn

Well-Known Member
Wall said:
looks like the frog lube paste (coated) isn't doing so great either
Pay no nevermind to that. I didn't put any on below those vent holes. Only above them. I should have run a strip of tape across that.
Edit: I edited the photo in photobucket to show it but it's not showing up?
 

2442

Member
Thanks for doing this Scott. I also am surprised at the CLP results so far. The Instructors at Lassen Gunsmithing College used to swear by that stuff.
 

Scott Hearn

Well-Known Member
2442 said:
Thanks for doing this Scott. I also am surprised at the CLP results so far. The Instructors at Lassen Gunsmithing College used to swear by that stuff.
I gotta admit this surprises me too. I've seen a bunch of people doing these things and it always did pretty well. I guess that why it's better to do them yourself.
 

Ksmirk

Well-Known Member
The job they were getting into was gunsmithing, hell yeah they tell you to use CLP so the work won't stop coming in LOL sorry couldn't help it.

I'll have to say I'm the worlds worst about keeping things all nice and clean like I probably should and most everything I have has some sort of Mobil 1 or Hoppes, be nice to hear the final results Scott so maybe I'll step into the world of technical rust preventatives, as I need to update my cleaning supplies. Later,

Kirk
 

jtischauser

I'm addicted to kicking ass
Staff member
Just curious as to which of these products you guys use as a rust preventative? I see rust most frequently on my shotgun barrel. I usually spray them down with rem oil. I would have normally considered the other products here for cleaning or lubrication.
 

Scott Hearn

Well-Known Member
Jesse on my safe queens the last couple of years I've been using Ballistol. But I have used Eezox and it's very good but it's a pain to get "right". If you leave too much on it turns to sticky goo that won't dry. If you leave a light enough coat it will completely dry in a few hours and it works very well. But over time I've used just about everything here except FL, FC and EWS. The only one that I can actually remember rusting on me was Remoil, but that was always the aerosol, this is the kind in the dropper bottle. Maybe there's a difference?
 

FireClean

Member
Just wanted to check in on this thread and address a couple of points on FIREClean. Thanks very much for running your test, Scott.

On the question of why not just pour it on like a conventional gun oil, FIREClean works as a solvent/cleaner, lubricant, and conditioner. As you can see (and more importantly, hear) in this video, even a BCG that appears fairly dry allows the gun to cycle very smoothly. Make sure your volume is up.

Knights SR-15: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n-w2MqQjjWM
Nighthawk 1911: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0h6Ik7vQMI

This is a testimonial we received from Kim D. Beckwith, Zero Ammunition sponsored shooter:
I have had a chance to test FIREClean in my STI Matchmaster and one of my Bianchi competition 1911.
I fired 400 rounds in rapid succession in steel challenge style. Inspections afterwards showed hardly the need for cleaning! In fact the
Matchmaster was hot enough to loosen the red Loctite holding on the scope.


The Gilmore Sports Concept 38 Super was shot through three 48 round course and showed no sign it needs to be cleaned. Ran out of daylight and now 2
inches of snow on the ground so far. Very impressed so far, can't wait for three gun to try the Benelli M2 and the Stag AR."


Red Loctite is spec'd to need over 425F to loosen. So FIREClean holds even when red Loctite is loosened.

As for cold temperatures, we have users in Alaska, high elevations in Montana, and Minnesota and Wisconsin this winter with no issues. We recommend running dry at extremely low temps,
as the metal will already be conditioned.

It is important to follow the application instructions at cleanergun.com. Don't worry about oil runoff based on our viscosity. We left a nickel boron vertically on a piece of paper for a week and
the paper was dry when we came back to it. Most oil would run completely off of nickel boron within two days. We know that because as shooters, we have tried them all. FIREClean was originally
developed for suppressed DI AR SBRs, but it works on everything we've tested, or had it tested on, from black powder to an M249.

We have a number of photos of how it cleans at https://www.facebook.com/fireclean/photos_stream and other videos on our Youtube channel above. We realize that our website needs serious
work, and we are working on that.

Thanks again!
 

Scott Hearn

Well-Known Member
Got some more pics today. Yesterday the day started out with some slow gentle rain, then switching over to snow. It snowed pretty much all day long into the evening. I'd guess that I got about 6" total. Got up this morning to warmer temps (still cool but above freezing) and real humid. The panel was totally covered in water beads. I took these pics about 1.5 hours before dark.

I have some rust starting on the Ballistol panel which really isn't surprising. This thing has been rained on at least 3 times now and has been wet in the morning several mornings since I put it out there. Ballistol will actually mix with water which is why it's good for black powder and milsurp corrosive cleanup. I doubt there's any Ballistol left on this panel.



The Fireclean still has the spot but I can't tell that it has got any worse at all.



CLP is degrading further:



The control for reference:



All of the other panels have no rust at all starting so far. The Remoil is still hanging!
 

Scott Hearn

Well-Known Member
WillR said:
How goes the rust?
Very little has changed. The spot on the Fireclean hasn't done a thing since it popped up. The CLP has gotten a little worse as has the Ballistol.

All the others are essentially identical to the last pics. We got rain coming tonight supposedly so maybe we'll get some action. I'm thinking I should have waited on warmer temps to do this.
 

Scott Hearn

Well-Known Member
I ran out of light so I had to bring it in for the pics.

Basically all products showing ZERO rust are:

Fireclean (At this point I'm calling the spot it has as not being rust. It hasn't grown or advanced at all that I can tell in well past a week.)
All of the Froglube spots
Remoil
Slip 2000 EWL
Eezox
Mobil 1

Here are pics of the others that are showing rust.





 

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